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mg_tf
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614 Posts
'Evening John-
He did when it failed first time, but I have no idea what I did with the post-it he noted them down on.
Apparently I have improved the front (imbalance sorted) but the hand-brake efficiency on the offside is "very poor".
He had the good grace at least not to call it ****-poor.
I'm keen to have a go, but I really want her back on the road by next week- got the chance of a road-trip away, so letting a pro have a go.
 

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mg_tf
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185 Posts
Had a brand new black hood fitted today. Looks great. Also fitted new primary rear seal, fixed cracked T Bar, and modified T Bar push-on fittings witth capped screws.

Have 12 month old rear replacement heated screen, which was removed as new hood was complete, rear screen in excellent condition. Available for sale if anyone one wants. PM me for details etc if interested.

Robert
 

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mg_tf
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27 Posts
I have spent the summer (sadly) doing an overhaul of my TF that would be worthy of its own Icelandic saga. It started out simple enough - it needed a new nose as a lorry kicked up some debris last year and cracked the old one - and it already had one crack in it which I had stitched with wire so I thought enogh was enough and had bought an LE500 nose. Suffice to say, I took the old nose/bumper off in May and despite steady work every weekend it still hasn't had the new nose fitted - it's been an odyssey into Bilstein shocks, wishbones, subframe bolts, headlight lenses, the rear high level brake light and most of all - rust.


This weekend has been an attack on rust in the boot area - on the seam under the boot sealing gaskets, also in the boot gutters (mostly behind the rear window), and also on the underside of the boot lid itself. The rust in the boot lid wasn't obvious at first but there are three stamped holes just above the lock mechanism, that had rust around them and also there is a smooth bead of overpainted sealant that runs along the bottom rear of the boot lid, on the inside, near the boot edge. That bead of mastic had detached at one point, for maybe 3" and water had got past it and into the folded seam along the rear edge of the boot. This had rusted inside the seam and bellied it out slightly - on the inside. Fortunately a few treatments with acid removed the surface rust which was all on the inside, and I pushed the seam back together a little and remasticed the old bead back into position. Will over paint the bead again to finish it off when I get the chance.
 

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mg_tf
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27 Posts
Made up a sheet metal frame for a lower mesh grille for an LE500 bumper I bought (old MG original one had suffered too much and was cracked in two places). Of course for the princely sum of £100 I could have bought an official lower grille from Rimmers but I thought that was too much for what it is.



I paid £10 for a 1mm x 500 x 500mm sheet of steel from B&Q (I already have some suitable mesh) and a few hours of work later I have a one piece metal frame for a new piece of mesh to go in. First made a card template measured from the new bumper grille aperture, then used aviation tinsnips to cut out the outer frame profile and an angle grinder to cut out the middle bit. Then cleaned up the rough edges with a flat/half-round file. Left some dozen large tabs around the outside profile which I bent at 90 degrees to the frame in a vice, ready to fold over an additional 90 degrees onto the mesh. These tabs also stiffen it up a bit.


The original TF grille has the mesh spot-welded to the frame, but fold-over metal frame tabs and some urethane sealant ought to do just as well.
 

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mg_tf
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614 Posts
Just back from a mainland trip: Stornowy to Glasgow, then Edinburgh, and back. 600 miles in 48 hours. Great run. I hadn't done this for a while and had forgotten wht a hoot she is. Have to find an excuse to do it again soon.
 

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Relined a hardtop "biscuit" which I'd taken off a hardtop some months back, then removed another "biscuit" from another hard top I have lying around and fitted the relined biscuit to that...also got the old scrubbing brush out to clean the nasty foam backing off the biscuit and have painted with PVA ready for relining :)
 

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Fitted new drivers side cheater. Simple job, and it now aligns correctly with the A seal. Now for the pain job! Aligning the window seals!
 

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mg_tf
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81 Posts
Gave the intake fuel system a bit of an overhaul. Fitted new fuel pipes from filter to fuel injector rail and return pipe. Not an easy job to do the return pipe as it's bolted to the underside of the intake manifold. Some vacuum pipes that looked a little tatty. Cleaned injectors through with carb cleaner. Fuel pressure regulator O ring and clip, also changed the camshaft O ring seal as it was weeping oil. The O ring for the camshaft is not available individually so sourced a Viton seal 3mm section 18mm ID. New ignition leads. Fitted Pipercross panel filter, early crimbo present to myself. Will be doing an oil/filter, fuel filter and plug change soon.

New airbag with Silver/Black logo.

Next job will be to pour my own Polyurethane bushes for the front ARB drop links.
 

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Drove mine to drop my son off at work- as I do most weekends (yes, I know its not the weekend but hes a student and works at NEXT part-time). All works, as I expect and most times wetter on the inside-glass- that the outside- but the heater is good and the fun is still there. Ive actually clocked up 20k since buying it 4 1/2 years ago. Ironically, its been one of the best cars Ive owned- The door switches are playing up with the wet- so I manually lock it- but that prevents battery-drain and false alarms. Must put the HT on, but its not been too cold so far.
 

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729 Posts
Had my coolant level alarm starting to flash when cornering, so looks like a slight drop in the level. My alarm is a homemade contactless sensor that fixes to the outside of the expansion tank and will activate when the level drops to exactly just under the halfway seam on the tank.
I put in half a cupful to get the level back up to where I normally like it.
As a precaution I decided to check the integrity of the coolant system with my pressure test kit.
Pumped up to just over 1 bar pressure and left the system pressurised for 15 minutes. Happy to report no loss in pressure, so will put the loss of coolant down to venting of the expansion tank cap over the last 12 months or so.
The testing kit is a great item and cost me less than £30 from Ebay. Well worth the money and it will do most makes of cars.

Sundance

Testing the system...


Pressure test kit...
 

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1995 MGF Mpi
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I've often thought one of those pressure testing kits would be worth it, especially with two Fs in the household.
 

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Nice kit. Can you test the caps with it?

I find the coolant level drops a bit in colder weather anyway. Then goes back up later in the year.
Does anyone else find that?
 

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Nice kit. Can you test the caps with it?

I find the coolant level drops a bit in colder weather anyway. Then goes back up later in the year.
Does anyone else find that?
It will not test the caps, but if you get a two second hand tanks and pipe them together and block off the spare outlets you can use one to fit the pump adaptor cap and one to fit the cap you wish to test. I have a spare adapted tank that I have used in this way before. Note if you use an airline and pump the tank up fast, you will damage the caps but the hand pump is ideal.

Sundance
 

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mg_tf
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Finally got round to doing the oil and filter change yesterday. She's ready to go back on the road come the spring😁
 
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