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MGTF 135
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I took out the cubby hole covers, gear stick and handbrake gaiters. Gave them all a good clean and rubbed them and the steering wheel with hot beeswax. Lovely smell and shine.Tomorrow going to trace the rear fog wiring, they just don't work for some reason.
 

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I took out the cubby hole covers, gear stick and handbrake gaiters. Gave them all a good clean and rubbed them and the steering wheel with hot beeswax. Lovely smell and shine.Tomorrow going to trace the rear fog wiring, they just don't work for some reason.
Fogs could be a relay in the scu.
 

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Fitted passengers door handle. I had a key hole in the black original I decided to put the lock barrel back in the coloured new handle. Not as bad as the how to's suggest. While the handle was off I greased the window runners and cleaned and oiled all the window parts. I now need to scrub the door cards. They are faded and dirty up close. I did not realise they were that mucky. Out with the nail brush tomorrow.
 

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MGTF 135
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Thanks I thought of that, but all the relays were changed last year when I had a second key coded by Paul at Technozen. I mailed him and he said it was "virtually impossible that the new relay had failed". The horn still works as well. Going to swap the switch for a new one now and see what happens.
 

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Thanks I thought of that, but all the relays were changed last year when I had a second key coded by Paul at Technozen. I mailed him and he said it was "virtually impossible that the new relay had failed". The horn still works as well. Going to swap the switch for a new one now and see what happens.
My relay failed.
 

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Oh well, I've got some spare relays it's not a difficult job, but: I can't get the switch out to try the new one, it comes out so far (about 2cm) and is just stuck fast. I tried levering it with one of my plastic trim removers but I stopped because I thought something might break (the console was bending). Any ideas why - cables too short maybe? My hand is too big to get in there to try and undo the plug at the back. As I've got a new switch I could put some mole grips on the switch frame and give a good yank, - but I've been putting a fair amount of leverage on the switch case already. I'm just stuck, all of the other switches come out as normal.
 

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Something is not correct with that switch. If you put more force plastic surround might give up and you could damage the console. You need to see what is blocking that switch since you said that console was bending.
Can you remove switches next to it and try to see through holes what is going on?

For this kind of problem I have camera on long flexible cable which connects to smartphone. It cost up to £10 and is a great help.
 

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Each switch has a key to it. This is a little groove and profile that makes it fit in the correct position. Is your fog switch in the right place? Mine is in the middle.

There are also two little lugs that need pushing in.
134633
 

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Thanks for the answers guys, yes the switch is in the middle, makes it even harder to see what's up. Almost a month ago I ordered a tiny camera with it's own screen and long flexible cable from China, so I can wait a few weeks to see if it arrives. I'm not going to do anything until I can have a good look at what is stopping the switch from coming out. There's no urgency because I've had the car going on for 2 years and I've never tried the rear fogs as far as I can remember, until we had some pea-soupers , it's unusual to get fog here. I bought it in May and it was hot and sunny and maybe I didn't try the rear fogs when I bought it, I just can't remember.
 

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The wiring at the back of the switches is a bit cramped. You could take the centre console off to allow a better view of what is going on. You could try to undo the switch plug connector, with more room. I had the scu out this week and there is not a lot of room for chubby fingers. Obviously you need the fogs working for an MOT. I use a small mobile phone, putting it in areas I cannot see. I only get still images but I can look at them properly and blow them up on the computer. You can post them on here for everyone else to see.
 

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134641
134642

At last pics of the door handles. Just got to drill the nearside one out. The lock barrel fits in nicely even though there is no opening for the key. When placed on my pillar drill it sits perfectly at 90 degrees. Bizarrely it will also fit in my centre lathe. I will have to experiment with the old handles. Also fitting the barrel is so much easier than how to's explain.
  1. Best fit the barrel before the door handle is fully in place and the spring clip can be mounted either way around. Very easy to mount upside down and then push it up to lock the barrel.
  2. I would also take your barrel off completely to test the fit in your new handles. The spring can be a little loose. It is easy to adjust when it is off the car.
  3. Have a small magnetic light to put in side the door. Much better when you can see.
  4. Have some blue tac in your 8mm socket. I have a screwdriver that accepts sockets. The blue tac stops the 8mm screw from falling into the door.
  5. Whilst your handle is off and door internals open, run some grease down the window tracks - both sides. I used red tacky grease for lathes. It sticks to anything but allows really smooth movement. A small tin on the web is about £3. My windows go up and down so much better.
  6. Also silicone spray down the rubber parts.
  7. Clean the window seal but more importantly the bottom of your windows with a wet wipe. The bottom of the windows goes green and I thought it was the rubber window seal. Nope it was the window. Easier to do with the door card off.
  8. The plastic visqueen liner.heat with a hairdryer. You might be lucky and it could re-stick to the warmed glue.
 

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mgf
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I haven't been on the forum much lately as I have spent a good part of the last 8 months sorting out my new to me ZT190. That's now turned into a fantastic daily driver and I am
very happy with it.
The MGF hasn't been neglected though as I have rebuilt the gearbox, replaced the clutch and have spent the weekend using Renovo to redye and waterproof the hood.
Not a difficult job but in spite of using plastic drop sheets a certain amount of the dye found it's way to the paint and needed a going over with cut polish to clean it off.
I'm glad that's done!
Wow! That picture came out big. I'm going to have to do some research on this new uploading system. :eek:
134656
 

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Premium Member
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I haven't been on the forum much lately as I have spent a good part of the last 8 months sorting out my new to me ZT190. That's now turned into a fantastic daily driver and I am
very happy with it.
The MGF hasn't been neglected though as I have rebuilt the gearbox, replaced the clutch and have spent the weekend using Renovo to redye and waterproof the hood.
Not a difficult job but in spite of using plastic drop sheets a certain amount of the dye found it's way to the paint and needed a going over with cut polish to clean it off.
I'm glad that's done!
Wow! That picture came out big. I'm going to have to do some research on this new uploading system. :eek:
View attachment 134656
Nice to hear how things are going. Looks good.
 

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MGTF 135
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47 Posts
The wiring at the back of the switches is a bit cramped. You could take the centre console off to allow a better view of what is going on. You could try to undo the switch plug connector, with more room. I had the scu out this week and there is not a lot of room for chubby fingers. Obviously you need the fogs working for an MOT. I use a small mobile phone, putting it in areas I cannot see. I only get still images but I can look at them properly and blow them up on the computer. You can post them on here for everyone else to see.
10 C today so I had a look at things and decided to take the console off, I just couldn't get the switch out however hard I tried. The console came off relatively easily following this guide Centre console. - How to Remove, but of course, one of the the lower retaining clips broke, (as they do), Rimmer didn't have any but B&G had them in stock FWJ100260 RH and FWJ100270 LH - these are screwed in so I imagine they are replaceable because they can break so easily - I was very careful as well.The top clips, which are moulded to the surround came out without brakeage. With the console removed I was able to push out the switch, with some force mind you, and the console is sitting in my office waiting for a really good clean. Probably 10 days before I get the new clips, but the car is drivable. I was able to fix my front fog wiring (connecting pin 1 and 2 together) - plenty of space to do it, so the switch is now illuminated. I had wired in my own fog lighs but didn't connect pins 1 and 2 together - my mistake. By the way, the new rear fog switch did the job, I've now got rear fogs, but what a faff to get it done. Just waiting for B&G now. Next week having the Black Diamond front and rear pads fitted, so let's see if they make any difference to the braking.
 
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