One front near side brake calliper reconditioned with all new rubbers, pins etc and painted, O/S now being done, paint drying and will then be made up. New pads as well, was going to do the disks as well but can’t get the locating screws out even with some gentle persuasion with an impact driver. Any ideas on this or is it out with heat and some choice words for them.....
Fitted carpets, seats and console between seats but alas, the purple cable to clock appears to have shorted and melted so not fitted the radio/clocks part of the console as will need to trace wire back in the loom to replace....odd the fuse didn't blow
Will see if I can get a picture of my seats, but reading those last couple of posts about disc retaining screws: I had the same on a TF. Had to drill them out, and found the discs rusted tight to the hubs.
I've also recently done brakes on a ZT, an Alfa Giulietta, an Astra, and a Clio. None had the same problem. They all came apart with no particular drama.
Replaced wiring to clock, also refitted front console, switches, radio and gear knob...whilst I was doing that my brother cleaned up the terminal on the starter motor then refitted air box (removed when doing spheres). Hopefully I won't need to keep putting my hand down between rear of boot and engine bay to "wiggle" the starter wire any more
Was meaning to get round to treating a 'bubble of rust' on the bottom of OS rear sill of my TF. Finally decided to do it over the weekend scraped off the blister and then pushed the rust patch and my finger went through it!!! So just got back from the bodyshop, chap cut out a 3" square and then welded some new metal, filled, primed, sprayed etc also did both rear arches as they were bubbling a little too. Very happy with the work and all good especially as it is sunny today!!
Bought some Bilt Hamber 'wax' to do/top up the bottom of TF and F, to keep them sound.
Well, that was aa frustrating day, one step forwards and one step backwords.
Back in February after changing the cam belt and water pump I could never get the car up to full working temperature as one of the camshaft seals had started to leak when the oil became hot.
At the end of February, I managed to change the seal for a new one, but I must have made a mistake in installing the new seal as it produced an Exxon Valdez oil slick on the drive.
The next day our family car was written off and with the physiotherapy working I am feeling well enough that I can start to work on the TF again. So this morning put a new seal in, that seems to work and got the engine up to temperature with the rad fan running, no unexpected coolant level change, all looking good until the coolant level alarm goes off. The rubber pipe that I removed to drain the coolant looks to have come adrift and has dumped a lot of coolant out of the system.